From my sleeping berth, I observed my wife as she got up from her bed and moved to the cabin floor to head towards the toilet. The dim lights from somewhere in the Midlands peeked through the blind, offering enough light for her to locate the door handle and enter.
Little did we know that by stacking our bags in the cubicle, we inadvertently set off the above-toilet shower, drenching my wife and our belongings with an unexpected gush of water as she squeezed in.
Her cries of dismay as she got soaked brought me out of my half-conscious state, abruptly ending the fantasy of a luxurious night train journey on the Caledonian Sleeper.
I recount this incident not to criticize the Sleeper service, which links London to the scenic cities and Highlands of Scotland. After a night’s rest, the breathtaking view of snow-capped mountains and shimmering lakes on the northbound route is truly a delight. Moreover, the cost-effectiveness of the journey compared to a flight and hotel stay, along with its lower environmental impact, is commendable.
However, returning to a damp pillow in a bed uncomfortably close to a standard National Rail toilet and being greeted by commuters at Euston station in my pajamas at 6 am was far from the elegant, James Bond-esque experience I had envisioned.
Therefore, two years later, my wife and I embarked on the SJ night train at Stockholm Central Station with a mix of excitement and apprehension, ready to embark on one of Europe’s longest train voyages.
The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially named Nattåg 94, links Stockholm to Narvik in Norway, covering over 1,500 kilometers each way. Departing from Stockholm Central in the evening, the journey takes approximately 18 hours to complete.
Instead of hugging the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, the train steers directly north from Stockholm, passing through Sweden’s vast forests, flatlands, and swamps.
The final destination, Narvik, holds historical significance for war enthusiasts. During World War II, the British Navy used the ice-free port of Narvik, warmed by the Gulf Stream, to launch a strategic assault on Nazi ships, marking a significant turning point in the war.
The strategic significance of this remote Lapland region lies in its abundant iron ore reserves. Kiruna, the northernmost Swedish city, hosts the world’s largest underground iron ore mine, supplying 90% of Europe’s iron ore. Securing this vital resource and the century-old train line to Narvik played a crucial role in fueling the war machinery of both sides.
In March, 124 years after its inauguration, I boarded the sleeper to Kiruna, just two hours shy of the final Arctic Circle destination. The experience was nothing short of fantastic.
Upon entering our second-class private cabin, I was initially concerned about its size. However, unlike the Caledonian Sleeper’s fixed beds, the SJ train’s three bunks could be folded into the wall, creating a more spacious environment. The versatility of the bunks allowed us to convert the bottom bed into a comfortable sofa during the day.
We spent most of the journey lounging in this setup, enjoying the scenic views of the Swedish countryside passing by, including the intriguingly named town of Bastuträsk (sauna swamp).
While Sweden may not match the sheer beauty of the Scottish Highlands, its diverse landscapes offer a unique charm. Traveling through the country, one encounters vast lakes turning into frozen expanses, powerful rivers, ancient forests, and the majestic Kölen mountain range.
The train exudes a vintage charm, contrasting with modern trains, providing a nostalgic ambiance with its solid construction and retro design elements. The storage racks near the ceiling keep the cabin tidy and spacious, a departure from the cramped bathrooms on other trains.
Unlike the Caledonian Sleeper’s en-suite setup, the SJ cabins feature a mechanical shower keycard for access to a well-equipped shower at the end of the carriage. The absence of an en-suite in each cabin enhances space and convenience, offering a more comfortable experience.
After a restful night’s sleep and refreshing shower, I felt rejuvenated and ready to explore the buffet car. The carriage is designed with four seating areas around sturdy tables, allowing passengers to relax and enjoy the panoramic views as the train glides through the Arctic landscape.
The starting prices for the SJ night train from Stockholm to Kiruna are 1,125 SEK (£90) for a couchette and 1,695 SEK (£136) for a second-class sleep carriage.
For bookings, visit www.sj.se/en.
